Email this article (Login required)
Email the author (Login required) Field observations of wave and current dynamics on a microtidal dissipative-intermediate environment at Bocagrande Beach, Colombian Caribbean, during dry and wet seasons
Submited: 2025-06-08 12:17:17 | Published: 2025-10-31 20:21:55
DOI: https://doi.org/10.3856/vol53-issue5-fulltext-3481
Abstract
The surf zone is one of the most dynamic coastal regions, primarily driven by the interplay of cross-shore velocity (u), alongshore velocity (v), gravity (G), and infragravity (IG) wave oscillations, which significantly impact the movement of water and sediment within the surf zone. This study presents field observations of wave and current dynamics on a microtidal dissipative-intermediate beach on the Colombian Caribbean coast during dry and wet seasons. Through the application of continuous wavelet transforms to pressure sensor data and current meter data recorded in field campaigns, the contributions of G and IG waves to the evolution of free surface elevation (η) and current velocities (u and v) were analyzed; observed along the intermediate-dissipative Bocagrande Beach, Colombia coast, which was impacted by flooding and erosion during two climatic wet and dry periods. Results indicated that, during the dry period, cross-shore and alongshore standing leaky waves were recorded in the parts of the beach both nearest and farthest from the shore. In the area nearest to the shore, cross-shore and alongshore standing edge waves were observed, as the beach lies between two groins. On the other hand, cross-shore and alongshore progressive leaky waves prevailed near shore during the wet period. Spectral analysis indicated that G-wave energy decreases shoreward, while IG energy increases, dominating alongshore currents. These findings underscore the importance of incorporating alongshore variability into studies of coastal dynamics, thereby facilitating a deeper understanding of the roles played by gravity and infragravity waves in sediment transport processes.
